When seeking a tropical experience without leaving the country, Hawaii is the way to go. And when going on a first vacation with a significant other you want everything to be perfect. These two factors made Maui, with its glorious beaches and world-class villas, a no-brainer for my end-of-summer trip.
Several hours of reading, talking, and trying to contain my excitement later, Robert and I arrive in Southern Maui’s prestigious Wailea. We promptly check-in to the first stop on our villa-centered escape from reality. The secluded Hoo’lei Villas, of the larger-than life Grand Wailea Maui, provide the ideal balance of privacy and amenities.
We go to explore the grounds, and inevitably get lost. The “grand” in this Waldorf Astoria property is not taken lightly. Everything is luxurious and epic, from the extensive collection of exaggerated Frenando Botero sculptures scattered across the lobby and eponymous Botero Lounge, to the various pool options that rival a waterpark. Finally we make it to the beach. I drop my bag and run across the warm, smooth sand with childlike delight, right into the raving ocean. Robert follows suit with a more “adult” sense of delight. The crashing waves wreak havoc on our attempted embrace, and we disperse, diving below the surface in opposite directions. Uncontrollable smiles stretch across our salty faces, as we head back to get ready for dinner, still in awe of our reality for the next few days.
Golden hour rays flood our villa through the sweeping lanai. As we approach the view for a pre-dinner sunset, stripes of sunshine glide across the tiled-floor like ballerinas on a gilded stage, performing what seems to be a private show, just for us. The sun rolls beyond the horizon and the complimentary shuttle service takes us to Humuhumunukunukuapua'a–that’s seriously the name–for a much anticipated dinner. Abbreviated to a more digestible “Humu Humu,” the restaurant goes beyond finding inspiration in its Polynesian roots, creating a space that transports guests to the coveted above-water bungalows of Tahiti. Seated at a corner table, we admire the midnight-blue lagoon that lazily reflects a nearly-full moon, while sipping on a lively pineapple wine (it’s actually made from Maui-grown pineapples) from the local winery. Thankfully the service is fast and sweet, and our Char Siu Pork Belly and obligatory Hawaiin Style Poke orders arrive with beautiful presentation. The squeaky clean plates, whose flavorful sauces we lapped up with the greatest variety of bread I’ve ever seen–from Squid Ink Monkey Bread to gluten-free, they have it all–have me excited for the daily catch creations to come. As we go over our plans for tomorrow our entrees arrive. The locally caught Mahi Mahi is a flaky masterpiece that holds its own in a rich coconut curry, while the Ono, which translates to “delicious,” exceeds its name. To wrap up the evening I indulge in the Sweet Uni, as the rustling whisper of the palm-leaf roof lulls me into a state of hypnagogia.
The morning sun pours through a sliver between the drapes to wake me, and I jump out of the plush bed with the excitement of a kid going to Disneyland for the first time. Not exactly the mood you want before a couples massage, but the idea of island-exploring together lit me up. To soak in as much of the 40-acre property as possible, we opt to walk from our villa. Little lizards dart across a path covered in multi-colored hibiscus flowers. We once again get lost, stopping before one of the waterfall pools to ask the friendly attendants for help. Crossing to the opposite side of the hotel we pass the on-site chapel equipped with stained-glass windows...if that doesn’t paint the picture of the Grand Wailea’s grandeur, I don’t know what will.
In keeping with the classic-meets-island glamour style, the spa is opulent. The peach-toned marble and towering ceiling of the lobby are reminiscent of a Roman Bath House. Surprisingly, the waiting area is even more impressive, due to the view of the hotel’s massive central fountain, set before the sparkling ocean. It really takes your breath away. Our masseuses guide us to a private couple’s suite, equipped with its own bath tub, and of course a stunning view. With both Robert and I preferring hard pressure for our massages, I was impressed at the skillful delivery that worked out our deepest knots, yet simultaneously calmed me into a euphoric state.
The natural thing to do after a luxurious spa experience is of course lounge in a cabana by the adult pool (note: the hotel is ideal for families, but that also means the adult pool is a necessary safe haven if you’re looking for quiet time). Yet given the nearly-80 degree temperature plus humidity, we only last the recommended 15 minutes needed to absorb our sunscreen, before plunging into the pool via a rope swing, when in Rome, right? From there we check out a geyser, the in-pool bar set within a cave, and the highlight: the 30 foot slide. As I race through the crimson tunnel, water splashing my face with playful glee, I feel an overwhelming wave of nostalgia, and just as I begin my mental journey in time, the slide spits me up into the pool, with great gusto. Although there’s water in my nose and my eyeliner has clearly been demolished, I’m laughing uncontrollably, until that too is interrupted by Robert’s howling laughter as he splashes out of the slide with the biggest grin I’ve ever seen. We repeat this process three more times, and it never gets old.
To change up the scenery we rent snorkeling gear, and dive into the warm ocean water. Fluorescent schools of fish move in unison between rocks; I approach the floor to get a closer look, but they naturally bolt away. The multi-colored patterns and the sky’s glow from above are absolutely mesmerizing. Plus, the near silence of the ocean floor provides a meditative escape. My nature-induced hypnosis is interrupted by a huge turtle, like massive! His carefree and relaxed movement is fascinating, and I jump to the surface yelling to Robert to swim my way. An hour later, in awe, but exhausted and a little sunburned, we head to the pool for cocktails. This is vacation after all.
Given our jam-packed day of water activities we crash almost immediately after getting back to the air-conditioned goodness of the villa. However, this coupled with the time difference allowed for an early-morning (read: 9 a.m.) paddleboard session before check-out. Luckily our villa hopping does not take much time, as the Fairmont Kea Lani is short three minute ride away. The vibe is more modern than at the Grand Wailea, but still encompasses the island life. A golf cart takes us through the property to our villa. The hotel itself reminds me of a mixture between Greece and Morocco–if either location was overflowing with luscious greens and tropical flowers–with its Eastern-inspired domes and pristine white buildings. Our villa is oceanfront, and a mere lawn walk from the sand. The two-story, two-bedroom space features the comforts of a five-star hotel and then some: a plunge pool, personalized (by name!) high-end toiletries that include sunscreen, beautiful marble baths, and colorful accent pieces scattered strategically throughout the villa, to evoke an air of tropical bliss. I’m sold.
After unpacking we head over to the adult pool for a quick dip. I marvel at the royal blue and gold-accented mosaic, whose tiles magically catch the day’s remaining rays. The lightly salted shallow water is a dream for floating and talking about life–past, present, and future included. What makes the location even better, and more “adult,” is the adjacent bar. A few refreshing glasses of Sauvignon Blanc later, and our dip transforms into a sunset watch. Time flies when you’re in paradise.
We make it to Kō (translated to sugarcane), the hotel’s signature, award-winning restaurant whose cuisine marries various cultures of Maui’s plantation era. Our knowledgeable server walks us through the menu, providing recommendations, and even island-exploring tips. While reminiscing on our adventure thus far over a lemongrass lemonade cocktail, I notice an actual lemongrass plant growing within reach, talk about farm to table. As per our waitress’ advice, we get the Ahi on the Rock, which comes with its own 400 degree searing stone, to prepare the fresh fish to our hearts’ desire. Given the delicious taste and experiential factor, it’s a must-try. Since the restaurant prides itself on sustainability and local sourcing, we go for the Opa once again, opting for a light macadamia nut crust preparation, which allows for the buttrey fish to remain the focus of the dish. The meal, ambiance, and service are all top notch, but the real treat for me is the unobstructed view of the waxing moon, gleaming in all her glory.
We get up bright and early (6 a.m.)–somewhat begrudgingly–to make our guided hike with Heather, the in-house energy ambassador. A short drive from the property lies the King’s Highway, a walkway once reserved solely for Hawaiian royalty. As we begin winding through the trail a feral black goat runs across the path to the beach. Turns out, they’re scattered all over, even little babies, hiding behind the brush. We get to a long lava rock covered stretch along the coast, which resembles Mars rather than a lush island. Heather explains that these jagged formations are remainders from the last volcanic eruption of 1790. Although it’s still early, the sun has no mercy and we’re all glistening with sweat. Thankfully we stop at a breezy lookout point. The scene is absolutely sublime: ferocious waves engulf the cliff, splashing our parched faces with salty mist in the process. A 360 degree turn captures the humbling beauty of the untouched landscape, where an unexplainable energy emanates from every angle.
To contrast our morning, we opt for the pool, choosing a cabana as close as possible to the slide (that’s our thing now, apparently). The fact that the swim up bar is right next to it, is an added bonus. In comparison to the busyness of the Grand Wailea, the atmosphere is more chill and couple-oriented, the slide however is anti-climatic. You can’t have it all...While I read a book and enjoy fresh fruit in the cabana, Robert makes new friends at the bar. We chat for a while, and inevitably meet a fellow Santa Barbarian, because it really is a small world. Sitting poolside, overlooking the beach below, with a Mai Tai in hand, I think “this is the good life.”
As sunset rolls around, our private chef rolls in to the patio to prepare a bbq dinner, Maui style. We share our experience, our fascination with the ocean and the energy that radiates throughout Wailea. Chef Richard, flips a sizzling rib-eye and calmly explains “That’s mana–the life energy that flows through all things, it’s strong on the island.” The word struck a chord, connecting all the instances of the trip thus far that took my breath away. After imparting his wisdom, and preparing a glorious spread: grilled shrimp, steak, fish, Molokai sweet potatoes, and a vibrant salad, Richard leaves. I watch the swaying palms silhouetted against a fading cocktail of lilac and orchid sky, while what can only be described as devouring, my dinner. Each bite is more satisfying than the last, yet the meat is my favorite. Inspired by all the wildness I ditch my silverware, and proceed to eat with my hands. Robert laughs and joins in. If you’re not sitting cross-legged and eating with your hands, why even bother to have an in-villa prepared dinner?
After the previous night’s meal, which we essentially destroyed, you’d think we would be satiated, yet we manage to hit the extensive buffet before checkout. Upon arrival at the Andaz, for villa number three, I realize we’re in a whole new world. Everything is modern and sleek, with the only “beachy” aspect being the actual sand in the zen garden of the lobby. I open the door to our oceanfront villa, and my jaw drops. The floor-to-ceiling glass windows, chic leather and natural-wood furniture, island-inspired contemporary art, and of course the ocean being a few steps away, makes this my literal dream home. We pop open our complimentary bottle of Champagne and delve into the new space.
In an effort to experience the absolute most of the property, we hop between the tranquil pool and the golden sands of Mokapu Beach for the remainder of the day. Who knew bliss came in the form of an Andaz? My affinity for the water leaves us out long after the sun has set, on what in turn becomes a private beach. I’m not sure if it’s the intoxicating scent of honeysuckle that hung, suspended in the salty air like the languid Maui palms––or if it was the exceptionally stiff Mai Tais––but it felt like love, all around. From the delicious breeze and glossy sky, to the embrace that held me protected in its warmth. It seems that time is standing still...and I want to stay forever, rapt in the ecstasy of the moment.
Our final day starts off in the most invigorating way, with a private yoga class led by Tracey, on the lawn before the villa. As the breeze plays with leaning palms, their rustle mixes with the slow roll of morning waves. It’s by far the most relaxing soundtrack for the practice. We move through a strong flow, smiling through the whole class. Nothing gets you centered and in touch with your surroundings quite like outdoor yoga. The morning brought with it a state of total zen, which continues on during my two-hour ocean swim. Instead of fighting the current I just roll with the tide, floating like I’m one with the water. I feel the mana coursing through, and around me.
To wrap up our Andaz stay, we take a less traditional dinner route to experience the hotel’s upscale Luau. Set before the fiery setting sun, communal tables covered in flowers are are occupied by couples, families, and solo travelers—proving a Maui adventure is for anyone, and everyone. The performance depicts the history of the Polynesian’s arrival on the island through traditional dance and chanting. We eat local classics Ohana (aka family) style and mingle with our neighbors in-between the show. As the sky transforms into dusk, the lights become brighter, taking on psychedelic qualities; neon hues of green, blue, and magenta caress the dancers’ skirts while they swing in rhythmic motion with the wind. For the finale, the lights turn off, and the fire dance begins. The passion of the story matched with the glow of spinning torches has me absolutely captivated.
Although it’s time to head to the airport, I can’t resist one last walk on the beach. With my toes buried in the sand, I soak in my last view of Maui. The rolling waves transform, morphing into one and I’m hypnotized by the powerful nature and the ineffable energy it graciously shares, without asking for anything in return. The island has a way of luring you into a state of absolute admiration and respect for it. A priceless souvenir to take home.