If you’ve ever been to New Orleans, you know there’s nothing quite like it. There’s a certain energy buzzing through the busy streets; it could be the vibrations of jazz bands echoing against metallic beads that decorate cast-iron balconies like Christmas ornaments, or the liveliness of the people, taking life as it comes, embracing the good with the bad. Whatever it is, I find it irresistible, and so with my best friend in tow we headed down South to take in all the iconic city has to offer (Soul-Creole fusion cuisine included).
After a rather rough flight, during which no amount of complimentary juice could compensate for the non-existent legroom and two-hour delay, myself and my girlfriend arrived at the Cambria Hotel New Orleans Downtown Warehouse District. Though it’s just over a year old, the relatively new-build seamlessly fits into its industrial surroundings. Nestled between art galleries and the grand Mississippi River, it captures the vibrancy of the city, without subjecting guests to the undeniably loud bustle that rings through the main squares and bar-lined streets. It provides guests with the ideal balance for recharging from late NOLA nights. We walk into the open lobby that doubles as the bar/restaurant and “living room,” as the hotel calls it, meant to be an inviting space that encourages mingling during the daily happy hour. Crimson wires hang in freeform from a concrete ceiling, with light bulbs dangling like sprinkled fruit in a metal-pipe grid. The centerpiece of the space is a sculpture, a modern tribute to the jazz roots that run deep in the city, created by a local artist. A few exposed brick walls and accent chairs with pops of metallic gold further contribute to the cool loft-like vibe of the hotel. It all comes together in a sort of organized-chaos way, due to the large-scale space. In a serious rush, we left our bags with the friendly front desk attendant and Ubered over to dinner at GW Fins.
Having spent the majority of our day in transit, a fast-food dash or a chip binge of Louisiana Zapp’s flavors (trust, these chips are a must-try) would have more than sufficed, but instead we were about to experience the kind of meal whose memory triggers an embarrassing level of salivation. Yup, that good. Located in the French Quarter the upscale seafood restaurant prides itself in having the freshest fish, as well as the most variety, with 15 to 20 types arriving from the docks each day. Our booth is roomy, comfy and 100% better than the plane...After a lemon drop martini order we let Chef Michael Nelson take the lead and provide us with his top choices from the day’s menu (note: the menu changes daily based on what produce and seafood is brought to GW Fins, with tweaks happening up until 30 minutes before opening).
To start off we are presented with the Crispy Pork Belly accompanied by a compressed pineapple square in a caramelized fish sauce: the lightly crunchy exterior is met with a velvet-smooth interior that’s surprisingly delicate for the trendy dish. It definitely ranks top-three in my pork belly experiences. Now for the house special app that can always be found on the ever-evolving menu due to its popularity: the Fin Wings. Placed atop a bed of bun (crispy rice noodles) lay golden tempura-ed fish fins shining in a Korean glaze. In an effort to utilize every part of fish, Chef Nelson created the ultimate crowd-pleasing snack modeled after everyone’s favorite bar snack, chicken wings. To our shock, the wings are rich with a thick yet buttery texture reminiscent of, well...chicken. According to Nelson “the flavor is in the nooks and crannies of a fish,” and I believe him, because we could easily eat ten more servings and leave happy.
To cleanse our palates we crunch on a refreshing Apple & Endive Salad before diving into the Scalibut, another original dish that’s permanently on the menu. It’s just as you would imagine, lightly crisped scallop slices baked over a piece of delectable halibut. A true example of how GW Fins puts an innovative spin on traditional seafood, the dish was created to retain the flavor of scallops, while camouflaging the texture (that many find less than appealing) through harmony with a silky slice of halibut; symbiosis at its finest. Our final treat is a real exclusive number, that those “in the know” call ahead for: Barbecued Swordfish. The entrée, served with juicy Southern collard greens, is meant to mimic barbecued pork. Although I do not partake in smoked-anything, my friend stepped in as the guinea pig, exclaiming how the spiced fish tricks and excites the taste buds all at once. As our food coma sets in (and I repurpose my chain belt into a statement necklace) our smiling waiter sets down a dessert. So as to not be wasteful we devour a Salty Malty Ice Cream Cake before it melts…
Happy and exhausted we make our way back to the Cambria Hotel New Orleans Downtown Warehouse District where industrial glamour reigns supreme. Our minimalist room is set in shades of grey, yet the devil is in the details—or in the case of the décor, in the skulls, which strategically blend into a black and white wallpaper design, paying homage to the voodoo culture of the past. Antique-inspired bedside lamps hang on either side of two plush beds, while a mirrored armoire replaces a standard closet in an effort to accurately reflect New Orleans’ history (fun fact: closets used to count as a room, increasing the rent of a property, so wardrobes were used in most homes instead). After a nightcap of complimentary Cabernet left for us by the hotel, we drift off to sleep.
On our agenda for the day is a walking tour of the city, led by us... As all NOLA days should start, ours begins with coffee and beignets at the famed Café du Monde. The pastry is warm and comforting, the overload of powdered sugar is not–I recommend embracing the mess (but make sure to bring hand wipes). Jacked up on caffeine, sugar, and gluten, we’re off exploring. From the historic Jackson Square to the estates of the Garden District, the architecture with its pastels and color-pops, and wrought-iron filigree on sweeping galleries is transformative, to another time. We make our way through streets lined in moss-drenched oaks en route to see a psychic at the Earth Odyssey. When in Rome, right?
After an enlightening tarot and aura reading with Michelle, it’s time for dinner at one of the city’s treasures, The Commander’s Palace. With over 125 years of experience and countless awards, including seven from the James Beard Foundation and a notable induction into the Culinary Institute of America’s Hall of Fame, we are beyond excited to try the refined-Creole restaurant. In keeping with tradition, we are greeted at the front door of the vibrant turquoise building by our hostess who proceeds to weave us through a crowded dining hall, up a staircase, and through three more halls. This place is huge, and every room has a different yet sophisticated feel. From a coveted window table we begin to survey the menu, and the gorgeous garden view. In an effort to sample the best offerings we opt for Chef Tory’s Playground Tasting Menu, a six-course delight. Our attentive waiters–we had perhaps four throughout the evening–helped choose a fine Bourgogne Pinot Noir from Burgundy, brought us black napkins to accommodate our attire, and served our dishes simultaneously. This is definitely five-star service. After the fanciest potato appetizer I’ve ever had (redfish mousse topped with caviar), comes out the Housemade Pappardelle with Duck Confit. Forget mac and cheese, this is the new comfort food. Flakey duck intermingles with a robust sauce, warming the soul better than a hug. A palette cleansing shot of Chai Crusta, a spiced bourbon and bitters concoction, breaks up the courses. Oh New Orleans, you really are something special. One Molasses Glazed Texas Quail and Grilled Tournedo of Black Angus Beef entrée later we’re in awe of the cloud-like steak and golden crisped dish.
Topping off our gluttonous affair is the Café Au Lait “Dome,” with its hefty bourbon meringue crown. You’d think we would be satiated and ready to retire to the comfort of our room, but no, nightlife called. In our case though, it marched, in parade form with a jazzy saxophone, beads-galore and all. That’s the beauty of this city, you never know where the night will take you.
Having overheard, in the mint-colored restroom of The Commander’s Palace, of a neighboring absinthe bar we go for it. So as to not give too much away, it has absinthe cocktails, a green fairy burlesque dancer, and the rest, you’ll have to find out for yourself. It’s 100% worth a visit. To complete the evening we stop in for a cocktail at an obligatory tourist attraction, the Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone. The bar does in fact spin with dazzling nostalgia, but snagging a chair at the 65-year old spot is no easy feat. Nonetheless, it’s unique enough to warrant a pit stop, even if only for a photo. I however squeezed through for a French 007!
As I make my way through the hotel in a mild daze, induced by sugary cocktails and an impromptu stop at a dueling piano bar, I pause at the “gallery.” It’s a long hallway lined with paintings by a local artist connecting the Cambria to its community. Showcasing the eerie swamps and the lively city, the pieces capture the essence of the Big Easy. I’m sure that during my next trip I’ll get to see a new perspective from the gallery’s featured artist of the month, and that New Orleans, will continue to captivate me with unparalleled zest.
Originally Published in the March/April 2019 Issue of Santa Barbara Life & Style Magazine